The Uzbek Cotton Pledge for Companies

About the Pledge

In 2010, the Cotton Campaign and its partner Responsible Sourcing Network (RSN) launched the Company Pledge Against Forced Labor in the Cotton Sector of Uzbekistan. By signing it, brands and retailers publicly committed to not use Uzbek cotton in their products as long as it is produced with state-orchestrated forced labor. The Pledge was signed by 331 brands and retailers.

Uzbek Forum for Human Rights, a frontline partner of the Cotton Campaign that has monitored the annual cotton harvest since 2010, found no state-imposed forced labor in the 2021 harvest.

As a result, the Cotton Campaign announced it ends its call for a global boycott of Uzbek cotton and lifts the Uzbek Cotton Pledge, at a press conference in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, on March 10, 2022. The recording of the press conference is available here.

Nevertheless, it is the responsibility of each individual company to assess whether sourcing Uzbek cotton goods meets its human and labor rights commitments and legal obligations to not use forced and exploitative labor in its supply chains. Each company looking to source from Uzbekistan must evaluate whether it has the means and capacity to effectively implement human rights due diligence and mitigate human rights risks in its Uzbek supply chain.

 
After encouraging hundreds of companies to avoid Uzbek cotton over the past 12 years, we’re happy to announce the time has come to lift the Uzbek Cotton Pledge. Companies now need to conduct due diligence and make their own policy decisions regarding sourcing in Uzbekistan
— said Patricia Jurewicz, CEO of Responsible Sourcing Network and Cotton Campaign co-founder, March 10, 2022

Opportunities and Challenges for Sourcing from Uzbekistan, Following the Lifting of the Pledge

Uzbekistan has the potential to become an attractive sourcing country for cotton textiles, offering new state-of-the-art facilities and the possibility of full supply chain visibility and traceability. However, serious labor and human rights risks remain, and any company interested to begin sourcing from Uzbekistan must develop and implement, in consultation with affected stakeholders, a risk mitigation plan to address these risks.

Although Uzbek Forum’s report found that cotton was harvested without state-imposed forced labor, the monitors found cases of coercion and interference by local authorities, as well as individual cases of forced labor. In addition, independent groups that conduct field level monitoring and capacity building are unable to register and operate freely, putting progress at risk.

In Uzbekistan, integrated cotton textile clusters control multiple aspects of production: cotton growing and harvesting (either directly or by contract with local farmers) and ginning, spinning, fabric production and textile manufacturing operations. The vertical integration of the Uzbek supply chain requires brands to conduct human rights due diligence to identify, prevent, mitigate, and account for adverse human rights impacts at all levels of production, including cotton farms, spinners, fabric mills, and cut-make-trim units.

Achieving this as an individual company can be challenging, given that Uzbekistan has no mechanisms to mitigate forced labor or labor exploitation in cotton and textiles production. This is why the Cotton Campaign developed a Framework for Responsible Sourcing. Through this Framework, brands, clusters, and labor groups can work collaboratively and at scale to establish and maintain strong standards in the emerging Uzbek textile industry.

Tailored to the context of Uzbekistan, the elements of the Framework — independent monitoring, capacity building, the operation of an independent grievance mechanism, accountability, and traceability — are based on international best practices to safeguard workers’ rights and ensure compliance with mandatory human rights due diligence and other supply chain obligations.

All companies looking to source from Uzbekistan are invited to contact the Cotton Campaign to discuss the possibility of sourcing within the Framework for Responsible Sourcing.

 

Text of the Pledge

We, the undersigned companies are working to ensure that forced labor does not find its way into our products. We are aware of reports documenting the systemic use of forced labor in Uzbekistan's cotton production. We are collaborating with a multi-stakeholder coalition to raise awareness of this very serious concern, and press for its elimination.

As a signatory to this pledge, we are stating our firm opposition to the use of forced labor in Uzbekistan's cotton production. We commit to not knowingly source Uzbek cotton for the manufacturing of any of our products until the Government of Uzbekistan ends the practice of forced labor in its cotton sector. Until the elimination of this practice is independently verified by the International Labour Organization as well as determined by the Cotton Campaign, we will maintain this pledge.

Pledge Signatories

331 brands and retailers had committed to not use Uzbek cotton in their products as long as it was produced with state-imposed forced labor

 
Signing this common Pledge demonstrates solidarity by the industry to block cotton using any form of slave labor from entering the global market. Having the largest brands and retailers in the world standing united shows that they are committed to doing their part to end forced labor, both of children and adults.
— said Patricia Jurewicz, CEO of Responsible Sourcing Network and Cotton Campaign co-founder, in 2014